HT1621B Display controller Breakout Board

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As a part of my work, I needed to drive an LCD segment display. Now, these displays are somewhat of a mixed breed between LCDs and 7 segment displays. They look sleek like LCDs, and are structured like 7 segment displays. However, they cannot be controlled just by toggling the segment pin of a particular segment high. They actually expect something of an “AC” signal to keep them on.

There are Arduino libraries that allow you to do this : You can find it here http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/SevenSegmentLibrary . However, if you are going to need 8-9 pins to control one character, you’ll find you will quickly run out of pins. Thankfully, these segments are very common, and so of course, there are controller ICs that will drive these displays, and let you offload the cumbersome task of generating the AC signals to drive those LCDs. The HT1621B is the perfect LCD segment controller IC for this job.

You just have to send messages serially to the HT1621B (in the right format of course), specify the necessary parameters, and the controller will take care of the rest. You can use the Arduino library for the HT1621B here.

HT1621B Breakout board

While working on this, I found it rather difficult to find an existing breakout board for the HT1621B, which is in the SOP48 package. I designed a board for it so that I could test it out. You can order the board with HT1621B controller ( if you are in India ) at the Amazon link here : http://amzn.to/2bRSKVb .

If you want to get just the SOP48 breakout board, you can head over to OSHPark (link below).

Order from OSH Park

I hope this is useful !

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Hacking MP3 Players – Adding sound to Arduino

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I’ve been wanting to add sound to quite a few of my projects, and have always found it way too cumbersome, too expensive or too expensive to add sound to my installations / projects, so a little while ago, I decided to try and hack a cheap MP3 player ( purchased from a roadside vendor) and trigger it from my Arduino to play pre-recorded MP3 tracks in sequence.

Here’s a picture of the MP3 player I am talking about, and what it looks like when opened up :

MP3 Player MP3 Player MP3 Player hacked

How the MP3 player works :

The MP3 player has 5 buttons: Play/Pause, Next, Previous, Volume Up and Volume Down.

As shown in the image below, each button consists of two pads, an inner pad and an outer pad. There is a metallic contact like a dome, covering the two pads, but not making contact. When you press the button, the metallic dome touches both path simultaneously and causes them to “short”. A short lasting for about 70 milliseconds will cause the action associated with that button to trigger. Note that a “short” of a small duration will not cause any trigger, and one of very long duration will cause multiple triggers, so it is important to time the delay right.

MP3Player

Each of the 5 buttons therefore has two pads, which must be shorted to trigger the five actions available. However, note that the pads on all the buttons are not unique i.e. there aren’t 10 unique pads, but merely 4 unique pads, scattered in different unique combinations. These 4 pads lead to 4 pins on a 16 pin IC, which I have drawn in the illustration above. The pins used are 6,7,8 and 16. To begin hacking the MP3 player, we must first solder 4 wires, either from the pads or from the pin on the IC (I find the latter easier), and extend them into multiple pinouts, so we can use them later.

In the illustration above is a table, which is a mapping of the combinations of wires which must be shorted for each action. So, to cause the MP3 player to pause/ play, we must short the pads / wires linking to pin 7 and 8 on the MP3 IC.

When we touch the buttons, those actions are easy enough to trigger. The question is, how do we short two pins (of which none might be ground), so as to simulate the MP3 function ? The solution is simple, really, we use relays. A relay is nothing but a mechanical switch that flips one way when powered on, and flips back when powered off. This is because each relay (drawn in the illustration) has a coil that creates a magnetic field when powered on, which flips a switch mechanically. The “COM” terminal which is normally connected to the “NC” (normally closed) flips and makes a connection to “NO” (Normally Open) when powered on, and we can use this to short a wire connected to COM with a wire connected to NO. Thus, each relay will short _two_ pads when powered, and will correspond to one pin on the Arduino that will power it on.

So, we’ll use a digitalWrite call from an Arduino to switch “ON” the Relay coil, thereby causing the wires to short. There is a slight problem, though. Chances are, your relay won’t trigger with the 5V that the Arduino supplies on its digital pin, and you’ll need to raise it to a level of 9V or 12V to trigger the relay coil. So, we’ll need to a buffer in between, here I have used the ULN2003. The complete arrangement for one MP3 function is mentioned in the illustration above.

This should mainly cover how to go about hacking the hardware of an MP3 player to work with an Arduino Uno. However, to make things a little easier on the Arduino side, I also wrote a simple library that lets you control the MP3 player just by specifying the pins on the Arduino that are connected to each relay.

Here is the link to the Github for the MP3 player library : https://github.com/ankitdaf/MP3Player

In the call to MP3Player, you just need to specify in the brackets which pins are connected to the relays corresponding to (Play , Next, Previous, Volume Up, Volume Down ) in order, and you should be up and running in no time !

If you are using only one button, you might want to skip the ULN2003 and use a simple transistor as switch instead as shown here (http://makezine.com/projects/arduino-mp3-player-hack/), but if you are going to use more than one button that is not advisable, since one of the pins that are shorted go to ground of the Arduino, and if you use another button with a different pad going to ground, those two will continuously trigger, messing up with your flow and possibly messing up the player itself.

If you have any questions, you can write to me at me@ankitdaf.com and I’ll be happy to help you out !

If you want to go get some Arduino supplies, you can get it from here : http://daflabs.com/

Cheers, until the next hack !

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Controlling TiM LED Matrix boards with Arduino Uno

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I have a TiM LED board from my helpful maker friends at Wyolum to play with, and was wondering what cool application I could make out of it. I was thinking of games, animations and the like, and started to put things together, just to test waters and see what it would look like.

Well, first roadbump. There were a couple of things missing. They weren’t so big as to cause major inconvenience, but it definitely would help visual applications if I added them. I am talking about row manipulations, allowing us to manipulate the board as a whole (or a collection of rows) , rather than as individual pixels.

Well, having had some experience with programmable RGB LED strips before (though those were LPD8806 based, not WS2811 based), I quickly added the helper methods, and put together a quick sketch using the ever-so-useful Arduino Uno. I made a quick video of it, I am going to keep playing with it for a while, something cooler just might be on it’s way ; )

Here is the github link to the sketch and the library : https://github.com/ankitdaf/TiM/

And here is the video :

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